Raymond Templier Art Deco clip brooch gold platinum diamonds rubies Unisex (7516)

Antique Art Deco clip brooch. 18k yellow gold and platinum. Diamonds and rubies. Made in Paris, France, by Raymond Templier, circa 1930's. 
Unisex - suitable for a man or a woman.   
Independent appraisal available to new owner.
 

Measurements:

Weight is 9.83 grams. 3.3 X 3cm. 1.37ct rubies. 2.40ct diamonds. 

Description :

Signature design style of Raymond Templier is the juxtaposition of solid geometric forms which balance and overlap one another. Another identifying trait is the use of smoothe metal geometric forms overlapped by finely pave-set colored sections. This brooch with a circle of gold, dipping towards the center and entirely cut out in the middle. The bottom edges are elongated into long, gold points. These are overlapped by long points in the opposite direction, pave set with rubies and culminating where they meet in the center of the gold circle, by a larger ruby. Flaring out on either side of and behind the ruby 'pie slices', are pave set diamonds, echoing the circle of gold above. Beautiful play of forms, colors and materials. 
A hinged pair of clips for attaching the brooch / clip to the costume. Secure. Extremely sophisticated and elegant.  Superb workmanship. 

Marks and Metal:

Like much antique jewelry, metals are not all entirely clear. Yellow gold clearly tests as 18k and is hallmarked with French eagle head (for 18k gold) in 3 places. The seller and myself both tested the white metal as platinum. My appraiser wrote 18k white gold. I will go with platinum as it's what I tested. 
Maker's mark lozenge for Raymond Templier. 
     

Condition:

wear commensurate with age.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.   

THE STORY:

Raymond Templier was a French jewellery designer. He is best known for his Cubic Art Deco and abstract designs in the 1920s and 1930s. Templier was born into a family of jewellers in Paris where his grandfather opened Maison Templier in 1849.  According to the V&A museum where his work is exhibited, Templier "was one of a small group of innovative Art Deco designers producing work in a minimal, geometric style that looked towards Cubism and the imagery of industrial production ". His jewelry is also exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 
The brooch is suitable for a man or a woman.