MASRIERA Art Nouveau gold enamel sapphire rubies scarf ring foulard (7458)

Art Nouveau scarf ring or foulard de cravat. Gold, enamel, rubies and sapphire. Made in Barcelona Spain by Masriera. Has original signed Masriera certificate.   

Measurements: 

Weight is 14.6 grams. 1 1/4inches (a little over 3cm) long.

Description : 
 

Arching oval in shape from the front. Formed by an exquisite design by Louis Masriera of a femal figure in flowing robes, long hair flowing back as she reaches forward to hold a beautiful deep blue sapphire in her hands. Marvellous detail to facial features. Swirling scrolls, lightly enamelled. The upper surface a line of calibre cut and set rubies. 
Sharp pin within to hold the scarf or cravat in place. 
The back open. Hinge for opening and ease of fitting over cravat or scarf.  

Marks and Metal:  

No marks found.
Many Masriera jewels were not signed. However, we have a certificate from Masriera, signed by the Managing Director, stating that this is an original, Masriera item (see 'photographs).     

Condition: 

Good with negligible wear commensurate with age.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.   

THE STORY:

The Masriera family jewelry business was already well-established Barcelona and were community leaders of the arts in general. Around 1900, the young Lluis Masriera returned from Paris, inspired by the Art Nouveau jewelry of Rene Lalique.
He closed the store for 6 months, melted the company's entire stock and beginning from zero, began working in the new style. Within a week, his entire production was sold. 
In Barcelona, Art Nouveau is known as Modernisme. 
In addition, Lluis was a leader in the general artistic world, literary, painting, sculpture and drama. He opened a theatre for which he painted scenery and was very actively involved in all aspects. 
More than anyone else, the jewelry of Masriera is seen to be on a par with that of Rene Lalique - the best of the best Art Nouveau jewelry, combining imaginative, elegant design with outstanding workmanship. Lluis had perfected various enamelling techniques and this is a special feature of his best work, including plique a jour enamel and a form of iridescent enamelling that he invented. 
This scarf ring combines all of the best elements of the Art Nouveau work of Lluis Masriera - design, flowing female forms, fantastic workmanship. 
Masriera is still in business today and this scarf ring was acknowledged as being an original Masriera design. 

During the late Victorian, Art Nouveau period, gentlement dressed with style and pezazz. A Man about town would wear a scarf or cravat if not a formal bowtie, and would often clip it in place by such a ring. These were known as fouldard de crevat in France. The portrait of Mr. Howell shown in the last picture, is an example of a fashionable gentleman (and notorious bounder), wearing a similar scarf ring. Not included with this item.