Antique Victorian pendant gold diamonds pearls hardstone cameo American (7475)

Antique Victorian pendant with associated chain. Hardstone cameo, diamonds, pearls 14k gold. Made in Newark, New Jersy by Bippart, Bennett & Company, 1880-90's. 

Measurements: Weight is 19.4 grams. Length of pendant from top of bale to bottom drop is 2 inches (5cm). Length of chain about 15 1/4 inches (38.5cm).  

Description : A classic late Victorian pendant. Triangular, large bale (loop), set with small pearls. The main body of the pendant is an oval mount around an oval cameo. The upper arc of this mount is ringed with pearls and there are 3 pearl fringe drops, attached by loops to the body so that they swing and sway as the wearer moves. Between the upper and lower sections of the outside of the mount (on the sides) are a flaring arc of graduated rosecut diamonds.  Each diamond in a leaf-shaped colette attached to the sides of the mount via curving stems. Golden globules or beadwork form an inner border around the oval, central cameo, which is the focus of the jewel.
The cameo was almost certainly executed in Europe. It is of an excellent quality and depicts a pair of winged cherubs (putti) proferring a bowl of fruit. The detail is wonderful from the curls of their hair, facial features, finger, toes, diaphenous robe, wings and chubby limbs. 

Pearls have not been tested as natural or cultured. 
Pendant comes with a high quality gold chain. It is very strong being composed of a double row of finely twined loops in a beautiful double herringbone design. The chain appears to be of a good age, but we do not know whether it is original to the pendant or later. 

Marks and Metal: Bale of pendant is marked 14k with the maker's mark of Bipart, Bennett & Company, Newark New Jersey. (a flame or torch).  There are hand-engraved marks on the back of the cameo, not all of which are clear to us. They appear as:    
initials? ECDZG? No 9. 2.54.3  

Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.   

THE STORY: Up to the late Victorian era, Americans usually bought their jewelry in the UK and Europe (or had it shipped to them from those countries). From this period onwards, they began manufacturing jewelry in their own right, with some fantastic manufacturers (Tiffany, Gorham, etc) rivalling the best that Europe could offer. Certain centers were well known for jewelry manufacturing, especially for more reasonably priced items. One of these was Newark, NJ, where dozens of factories sprang up during this time. However, there was one area that almost nobody could rival: the carving of cameos from Italy. True, the French and Germans did some great work, but the vast majority of good cameos came from Italy. It is almost certain that this pendant is composed of an Italian cameo set in an American mount (as shown by the maker's mark described above). This was a common practice all over the world - using a local setting to mount a fantastic Italian cameo. 
While we will never know the origin of the carving for sure, what we can clearly see is the exquisite quality of the cameo. The setting sets is off very nicely, taking a slight back seat to the fabulous hardstone sculpture. The overall look is wonderful - whether from afar or up close with a magnifying glass.
This necklace can be worn with anything - from your favorite jeans to a smart dinner party, it goes with absolutely everything and enhances every outfit. A true work of art.