Brenda Ginsberg Antique Jewelry
Antique Victorian Earrings Etruscan Revival gold beetle scarab (7538)
Antique Victorian Earrings Etruscan Revival gold beetle scarab (7538)
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Antique Victorian Etruscan Revival earrings. 18-20k Gold. Made circa 1870-1885. Exact origin and maker unclear, but in the style and quality of Castellani. Bought in the UK.
Measurements: Weight is 5.7 grams. 7/8th inch long (2.6cm).
Description : Squares placed at an angle like kites, in shape. The same kite shaped squares are placed at the 4 cardinal points. The centers are raised concave ovals - as though emerging from the surrounding background, but scooped out to accommodate the beetles in their centres. Ovals are surrounded by a double border of ropetwist filigree. The ground around them and between the 4 kite-corners are decorated with beautiful filigree and granulation in a zig-zag pattern. Corner kites with the same ropetwist borders, filigree and granulation. Slightly larger gold granules are placed at the outer borders between the corner kites.
The central feature is the beetles or scarabs with incredibly fine detail and modelling.
Simple gold wires - replaced - make earrings easy to insert and comfortable to wear.
See Story below.
Marks and Metal: No marks found. See below for possible maker. Earrings were electronically tested as at least 18k and possibly 20k gold. The repaced wires are 10k.
Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Sides/back with tiny dings, mentioned for the sake of accuracy - in no way impact the appearance of the earrings. A few tiny gold granules are missing - only visible if you are looking for them with a loupe. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
These earrings embody Etruscan Revival and Pia Castellani or Giuliano. The central oval with multiple rope-twist borders is classic Castellani, as is the fabulous filigree and granulation.
Page 188 of the book Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry by Susan Weber Soros and Stefanie Walker, describes the filigree and granulation workmanship of a Castellani brooch: "The precise use of thick beaded wires, wire ropes, and isolated grans can be seen, as well as the remarkably clean soldering and the even, matte gold surface color...."
We can say the same of the work of these earrings.
In the absence of any signature, we cannot ascribe the earrings to a particular maker.
Were the earrings once larger with a signature on the missing part? Were they never signed? This mystery is what makes antique jewelry such a fascinating subject. Regardless of the provenance, the earrings are beautifully made with a rare and fabulous design and as wearable today as they were 150 years ago.









