Antique Victorian dragonfly pendant necklace gold sl diamonds gems enamel (7515)

Antique Victorian Napoleon III dragonfly insect pendant necklace.  Gold, silver, diamonds,  rubies, sapphire and enamel. Made in France, circa 1890. 
 

Measurements:

Weight is 11.8 grams.   Total length 20.5 inches (52cm). Dragonfly 6.3 x 3.2 cm

Description :

Elegant, naturalistic dragonfly with outstretched wings. Finely pave set with diamonds that glitter exactly as a real dragonfly would gleam in the sunlight. Royal blue enamel highlights and detail to the wings. The thorax consists of a central blue sapphire with pave set rubies forming the abdoment and cabochon rubies the eyes. Feelers of scrolling gold ribbons, enclosing tiny rose-cut diamonds in their terminals.  
Beautiful color combination - bright and shiny without being coarse.  The tips of the wings are attached to a fine gold chain.  
 

Marks and Metal:

loop at end of chain are hallmarked for French 18k gold (eagle head and 750). Right hand loop connecting chain to dragonfly with eagle head and swan mark for both 18k gold and silver. There appears to be another hallmark below the tip of the wing directly under that loop. 
Despite having French hallmarks for 18k gold, our independent appraiser tested the gold as 16-18k. We will go with the lower value to err on the safe and conservative side. 
     

Condition:

Minor wear commensurate with age. From the front, no visible damage/restorations. From the back, a close inspection shows minor soldering around the central sapphire.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.   

THE STORY:

During the 19th century, diamonds were set in silver to show them off to better effect in gas or candle light. The silver was placed over a layer of gold mounting in order to protect skin and clothes from tarnish.  At this time, jewellers did not have the equipment to ensure homogenous gold purity. Many items of jewelry were made from melting down earlier jewels. As a result, it is very common for antique jewelry to test at multiple levels of gold, as is the case with this pendant. This should not be seen as a detraction, but rather as an indication that it is indeed, an authentic, old jewel. 
During the late 19th century, especially for the followers of the Art Nouveau style which was trending for about a decade after the staid and solid Victorians, insects became a huge hit. Dragonflies are especially typical of this era, both because of their beautiful, elegant appearance and because of the varied symbolism that was easily recognised by every Victorian. 
This is a fabulous example, combining the great quality of late Victorian French work and the style and elegance of the Art Nouveau period with the wonderful combination of colors as an added attraction.