Antique 22k Gold Indian Armband / Pendant Thewa Work Deer w Dog Unisex(4913)

Antique armband or pendant. 22k gold openwork in Thewa technique, over green glass. Made in India circa 1850-1890. Unisex.  

Central piece measures approx. 30mm (1 1/8th inch) long, not including the mounts on either side. Total weight is 15.4grams. There is no way to measure the gold separately.

An oval green glass is mounted in gold. The back & sides are entirely enclosed in gold. Engraved / chased flower and foliage decoration. The top is an amazing feat of the Indian master craftsman. The details of the processes used to make this work was a closely guarded secret. A thin layer of gold, engraved and cut out to depict a fantastic  scene: a pair of huntsmen take aim at a deer in the center of the vignette. The deer is being attacked by a huge tiger-like dog. The elegantly twisting bodies are reminiscent of Persian and Indian miniature painting. The figures are surrounded by scrolling foliage and flowers. In the foreground, a small deer runs past one of the hunters. Fabulous detail. Most interesting is that one of the hunters is European as we can see from his hat, while the other, in the front is Indian, as we see from his head attire.

According to Nick Barnard in his book on Indian Jewelry in the Victoria and Albert Museum, page 78, Thewa work was very popular with Europeans. A similar example is shown in the book and can be found in the V&A Museum. Glass was very highly regarding in India. This particular piece of glass is of a marvelous emerald green with a bright golden glow when the light catches it. Like most old Indian jewelry, this item is worn on a silk cord with a tassel. It was often worn by a man. The old, circular mounts have loops at the back and they could quite easily be adapted for a chain or other form of strap.

Condition is very good.